Portree, Isle of Skye

Ready to explore more of the highlands, we were eager to pickup the rental car and start our driving journey. Dwight and Riley had been mentally preparing for driving on the left by paying close attention to the traffic and our drivers since we arrived in Inverness. Intersections are the trickiest part, especially the ubiquitous 2-lane roundabouts.

Dwight was first up so we all pitched in with helpful reminders for the first few minutes. Stay on the left. Follow that red car. Left, Left! Under normal circumstances backseat driving isn’t recommended but he assured us it was welcomed. He did great, aside from hugging the left shoulder a little too tightly at times. After a bit, things relaxed and we all enjoyed the gorgeous scenery unfolding around us.

Paige: Dwight did very well although a bit nervous. It was helpful that he had 3 back seat drivers. He wasn’t too bothered.

Eilean Donan Castle was the first stop on our route. Originally built in the 13th century, it has undergone four reconstructions. The island it sits on was occupied as early as the 7th century. The first structure provided protection from Viking invaders. The castle later played a role in the Jacobite uprising.

Today, the castle includes interesting artifacts and replicas of the kitchen and living areas as they were when it was last used as a residence. We were impressed with the working wood fireplaces that even now heat the massive stone building. The narrow winding staircases with steep steps required sure footing to navigate. I can’t imagine doing it while wearing a wide hooped skirt and tight corset as they did. Not to mention dealing with all that in the tiny privy tucked into a corner.

All that medieval history made us hungry. Dwight and Paige researched and planned the driving routes ahead of time and knew of a restaurant close by that would be perfect for lunch. Unfortunately the research didn’t account for it being closed on Sunday. Undeterred, Riley googled and found the Shellfish Shack not far down the road. It looked as its name suggests with a couple picnic tables alongside. Paige looked longingly at the full service restaurant just behind it (that didn’t open until five o’clock), while we looked over the menu board at the shack. Mussels, langoustines, crab claws, oysters, scallops and squat lobsters were displayed in bowls at the back of the shack. Riley asked the young fellow taking orders how the mussels were and he said he didn’t know because he doesn’t like seafood. The other fellow working there joined the conversation and he also doesn’t eat seafood. We decided to find somewhere the staff will actually eat the food.

We did have a nice lunch of wood fired pizzas and venison nachos at Cafe Sia a little further down the road before continuing on to our next accommodations in Portree.

Along the way, we stopped in Sligachan to see the statue recognizing Norman Collie and John MacKenzie, renowned Skye mountain climbers. Dwight and Paige posed in front of the Sligachan Old Bridge.

Portree is the largest town and capital of the Isle of Skye in the inner Hebrides of Scotland. The town is quite picturesque with gorgeous water, lush vegetation and very narrow streets. Our duplex has amazing views of the Sound of Raasay and the Cuillin from nearly every window.

We were taken aback when we first arrived to see building materials blocking the driveway and a partially demolished/partially constructed deck between us and the lock box holding the house key. There had been no mention of this in the VRBO listing or subsequent conversations with the host so Paige was not a happy camper. We all stood back when she whipped out her phone to find out more about this and to express her disappointment. Appeased by the manager’s apology, we settled in for the next few days.

Paige: I did not go full on b**ch but I was not happy. The accommodation was good inside. Who cares that we had to vault into the property. Okay, that’s not true. The interior was fine. We have 4 bedrooms although we only use 2 with en suite baths. I was sure I heard footsteps going up the stairs last night and when no one admitted to it, I guess this place is haunted. Which I normally hate but whatever. I am a hardy Scot.

After stocking up with groceries at the co-op, we went down to the waterfront for dinner. The Lower Deck was one of the few restaurants open. It’s a tiny little place with almost as many people waiting in line outside as there were seated inside. The weather was clear but the temps were cool and very breezy. The wind off the water was more than Paige and I could stand so we waited in the car while Riley and Dwight stood outside like popsicles for nearly an hour.

Inside was so warm and cozy! The food was almost worth the wait, but not entirely. The scallops were delicious but the calamari was disappointing. They could have been mistaken for frozen onion rings you might get at a fast food restaurant. Dwight’s mussels were not a savory as he expected but Paige’s fish and chips were good. Either way, we left warm, full and happy.

Sunny weather the next morning promised a good start to our driving tour of the Highlands. We drove north on A855 in a big loop around the peninsula then down on A87 back to Portree. We stopped at several places along the way, each turn revealing breathtaking views. It’s just an incredible drive!

The Skye Museum of Island Life provided an interesting example of island life in the 18th century.

The crofters house was very interesting. 3 rooms which were the keeping room/kitchen, parents’ bedroom and the children’s room with two beds. There used to be three beds because there were 10 children,

Kilmuir Cemetery is located on the site of a 16th century church though no trace of St Mary’s church remains. The most interesting grave marker is a late medieval effigy of Angus Martin, or ‘Angus of the Wind’, The nickname came from his habit of going to sea no matter what the weather.

Another notable grave is that of Flora MacDonald. She’s best known for spiriting Bonnie Prince Charlie out of Skye following the battle of Culloden. She set out in a boat with the Prince disguised as a spinning maid “Betty Burke” allowing him to escape to France while his followers were captured and executed or forced into exile.

Flora emigrated to NC, and spent a number of years near Wilmington before she returned to Scotland.

Rain set in just as we completed our sightseeing plans for the day. It worked out perfectly since Dwight planned the drive to end with a visit to Skye Brewing Company in Uig. After lunch at Bakur Restaurant on the waterfront we walked over to the brewery. We were disappointed to find there wasn’t a tap room of any kind, only a gift shop. We settled for an afternoon browsing Portree shops and a beer at the Isles Inn.

Riley walked over to the bakery just down the street, arriving just as they closed. He looked so pitiful standing outside they let him come in. He came out smiling carrying a box of fresh donuts. Back at the bar, the bartender was amused when he asked if they had milk and Riley was equally thrilled he did!

Although milk needs no cheers, we toasted “and justice for all” as Margot deems the perfect toast.

After returning to the Lower Deck for dinner since we could not get in anywhere else, we returned to our accommodation for the evening. We are looking forward to our day tomorrow touring Castle Dunvegan.